I Love Uszka

For the Vegetarian Thanksgiving Radical, & the Dumpling Devoteé

My first cookbook, the one that taught me basic French cooking technique, was The Vegetarian Epicure, by Anna Thomas.

I wasn’t a vegetarian. I was 16 and had to look up “epicure” in the dictionary. My big culinary triumph in those days was probably meatballs. (Worthy!).

When I first skimmed Anna’s chapters, I saw she had a “holiday” section in the back,…