The Case of the Missing Curve
How to Look Good in Spite of it All — Sewing Room Confidential
There is a secret in the fabric shop. Dozens of people come in all day, mostly women, to purchase soft minky for baby blankets, retro oilcloth for totebags, and Betty Boop flannel for pillowcases.
But these are not just eager homemakers and doting moms. These are seamstresses who are terrified to make something to wear for themselves. They are hiding out in Home Dec because the last time they made a dress it was such a disaster they’re still trembling with shame.
What was the problem? Why did they never attempt a jacket, a pair of jeans— a t-shirt, even?
The answer is in one dreaded word: curves— three-dimensional curves, the diabolical design of the female figure. I would like to explain this to my readers, even if you never so much as sew a button. You will at least understand what the mirror is not telling you !
Curving bodies present the first real challenge to a home crafter or fashionista— you cannot flatsy-patsy your way out of the geometry of the human body.
The chief culprits in this conundrum are found in the prerogatives of the most well-known pattern companies and designers. They don’t advertise this fact, but Vogue, Butterick, Simplicity, McCalls, etc., all design their patterns for a B-cup, no matter how large the chest measurement. So too, do all the ateliers in Paris and Milan. It is “the way.”
You could cut out the tissue with a 40” bust, and it would still be a B cup— which is astounding when you think of how few women would fit that measurement.
These same patterns also place the apex of the bustline (where your nipples sit — the apex is the nipple) at a high angle, pointing at the stars.
If your apex is more at sea level or below, the finished garment is going to look ridiculous.
Why do they do this, what kind of mad plot is afoot?
To be honest, designing for a flat plane is the simplest, most forgiving assignment. It also allows for the most variety. When fashion cutters say a slender, boyish figure looks best in high fashion, it’s not a lie, or even a prejudice. A tremendous variety of clothes look great on hangers. Also, small children.
If you are an adult with that hanger-like look, (slim hips or bust, a pretty straight line) you should try every crazy outfit under the sun, because it will probably look swell on you!
Curve-friendly patterns require more discrimination as to what garment would flatter. They take longer to draw, to cut, to sew— they are more labor intensive. But they are worth it.
Have you noticed how bridal designs in recent years have focussed on sleeveless, strapless gowns? They’re all the rage, and it’s not on account of being sexy or romantic.
No, it’s because drawing and tailoring a SLEEVE, (a huge curve if there ever was one) adds a tremendous cost to the dress. Designers like Vera Wang revolutionized the bridal bottom line when they realized the profit margin lay in cutting those darn sleeves off. The sleeveless gown was promoted as the ultimate in chic.
Is there any hope if you DO want a sleeve, a bust, a trouser? Yes. A well-drawn pattern by someone who has devoted themselves to curves is the place to begin. Don’t reinvent the wheel unless you’re enrolling at Parson’s and need the exercise.
Another idea: take a garment you adore and carefully take the seams apart. Use it as a template to cut your own pattern out on paper. (Leave an inch seam allowance).
The bust is the most difficult area to fit in women’s clothing— okay, crotch curves are a close second— but if you can learn from a good pattern, you’ll start to understand what kind of silhouette and ease looks best on you.
“Ease” is the difference between your body measurements and your finished garment’s dimensions. It’s also the state of relaxation and luxury you will feel when you start sewing clothes for yourself that fit.
Popular patterns from companies like Burda, Hot Patterns, and Kwik Sew all feature designs that assume that as one gets bigger in size, the cup size should change with the chest measurement. Many smaller pattern designers think this way too . . . but you have to ask them.
A C/D/DD cup on the pattern tissue addresses the majority’s problem. Simplicity offers a few patterns with cutting lines for different cup sizes, (one trendy jacket, and one shirt-dress) and I flooded them with encouraging letters.
However, some people are petite and curvy, and these unaltered designs still won’t be enough. Every pattern has to be goosed a little. One of the biggest dressmaking alterations of our generation is the “forward-shoulder adjustment”—for people who have permanently hunched frames from sitting at their computer.
A kind mentor or teacher is always the sweetest way to learn The Way of the Curve.
There is a couple bibles that many sewers testify gives them a new lease on fashion. One is Real Fit for Real People. It’s a manual as unpretentious and as it sounds. It shows you how to slash, spread, and tape any pattern tissue into submission. You will be flabbergasted how great the models look whether they’re six feet tall or eighty years old, top-heavy, pear-shaped, or round as a barrel… all because they finally have something that fits.
Another is by my one-time teacher and fulltime guru, Sandra Betzina. I locked myself in a sewing room one time with her for 4 days, and I never wanted it to end! Her book is Fast Fit: Easy Pattern Alternations for Every Figure.
Let me say, too, that all human bodies are truly curves. Masculine bodies cry out for love too, in the same situations. Let the sweatpants liberation begin!
When you make a dress or shirt or pants that actually fit you, you will have a hearty laugh at “ready-to-wear,” which should be called “ready-to-swear,” because it so often insults the variety of human form.
Curves are divine— they just need to be handled properly, with consideration, respect, and a little savvy circling.
I don’t sew, yet I read this entire piece! Really informative. I’ve been interested in learning some sewing basics so I can try my hand at altering some so-called “ready-to-wear” clothing. I’m going to check out the resources mentioned. Thank you!