Fideo— Sometimes With Kimchi

California fusion has been happening for the last century or two

In 1971, an author named Jonathan Norton Leonard wrote a treatise for the Time-Life series, Foods of the World on California cuisine, with a heaping dose of benevolent racism and retrograde language.

He was also prophetic:

Of all California cities, San Diego is one of the most eclectic in cuisine. It is less than 20 miles from the border, so Mexican influence is strong. There are many good Mexican restaurants, and non-Mexicans often “cook Mexican” in their homes.

When San Diego kids have picnics or other get-togethers, they are apt to choose tacos instead of hot dogs and to prepare themselves.

San Diego also has a considerable Oriental [sic] population: Chinese, Japanese, Koreans, Filipinos and quite a few Southeast Asians and Indonesians. Besides many small shops to supply their national foods, there is a large and attractive supermarket that appeals to them all.

Most of the customers are Oriental, but Caucasians are coming in ever-increasing numbers. On my next visit to San Diego I fu…