A Cocktail Legend is Born— "The Pendino"
A moment, a genuine moment in cocktail legend, has transpired. —While grilling chicken and eggplant on the Weber.
Messieurs et Mesdames, je vous donne:
The Pendino
2 oz. Bombay Sapphire London Dry Gin
1 oz. Marie Brizard Apry (or Apricot Brandy)
1/2 oz. Nocino (that is walnut liqueur, which many of your California friends make at home, but you can also buy as Italian import!)
1/2 of a full, juicy lime
Shake in an iced cocktail shaker, and strain into a ice-filled highball glass.
Garnish with lime wheel.
Inspired by the iconic Pendennis Cocktail, devastated in style by homemade Nocino. A joint effort by Master Bailiff and Ms. “Leisure Hours” Bright.
You can also buy the store brand of Nocino, happily.
If you have a walnut tree in your vicinity, be inspired: make this tincture every summer. It's so easy, and yet the result is so astounding, so multi-layered, people will think you're a magician.
READ MORE
I was a late bloomer to the beverage racket.
Interestingly, I got drawn in by an author named Jeff “Beachbum” Berry, who despite his laconic nickname, wrote and self-published a mouth-dropping history of the Tiki culture, called Sippin’ Safari.
Berry’s writing draws a comparison to Howard Zinn — he gets into the “people’s history” of alcohol in a way that compelled my political imagination. Yes, race, class, imperialism — it’s all part of Tiki history.
I wrote Mr. Beachbum a FAN letter — another example of why it pays to write to strangers you admire.
I told him, that in addition to appreciating the political education, I would give anything to taste one of his authentic tiki cocktails. But I barely knew how to pour a gin and tonic. I had been a pothead, a milk drinker. I knew nothing about liquor.
He wrote me back: “You are in extraordinary luck. An hour away from your home, there is a mixologist named Martin Cate who is one of the last people in the world doing it right and he’s cultivating a dive tiki bar in Alameda.”
Alameda! It’s a pretty sleepy suburb in the Bay Area, famous for being an old Naval Air Station. But Jeff was emphatic. This Cate fellow had resurrected the Holy Grail of Navy Grogs and authentic Zombies. So off my family went, on our own “safari.”1
Jeff steered me right. Martin and his wife Rebecca are culinary and historical wunderkinds. We became friends — they are huge readers and historians themselves. Over the years, they’ve launched several establishments that changed the way mere civilians perceive booze. They were the first bar menu writers to include a whole reading section (after the happy hour listings) of how rum and slavery were inexplicably intertwined. I know most people don’t go to bars to become scholars, but their insights were irresistible.
In 2016, the Cates wrote their own book, Smugglers Cove, named after their beloved San Francisco rum club, which includes a cocktail recipe. . . made in my honor!
The drink is called “The Sexpert.” Martin concocted it for my memoir book launch in 2011, and as far as I’m concerned, such a designation is better than being on the Times bestseller list.
Through the Cates and Berry, I added one last classic to my kitchen bookshelf: Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails, by Ted Haigh — I’ve purchased three copies over the years. Again, a literary visual romp through the social history of Prohibition from the barkeeps’ eyes.
There you have it: The reason I’m so proud of my “Pendino” recipe is because I have been schooled at the fountain of the greats. May your own journey feature such toasts, and insightful hosts!
Our lives are so much richer having met you, Susie! These words mean so much - thank you!!